My daughter and I are out east on vacation for a couple of weeks. Luckily for me, and my daughter, 2 books I ordered a little while ago actually arrived early (they weren't scheduled to arrive till after I was gone):
Both seem to be great books full of fun ideas for learning new things and encouraging exploration and experimentation. I'm sure that we'll find a few things to do during our vacation.
Friday, July 11, 2014
Saturday, June 28, 2014
Project CNC - CNC Controller Board Pictures
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| Top of Controller Board |
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| Bottom of Controller Board |
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| Assembled Controller Board |
I ordered 1/4" 16tpi Acme screws from McMaster Carr to replace the #10-24 threaded rods that I'm currently using. I ordered 2 nuts for each axis so that I can make new anti-backlash nuts like the ones I am currently using. Finally settled on lead screws instead of belt drives because I felt that they would be more likely to be able to handle all the debris produced by the machine (from cutting materials). Once I replace the lead screws I will need to switch the stepper controller boards to micro-stepping mode to maintain (and improve) resolution.
Wednesday, June 25, 2014
Project CNC and Project 3D Printer - New supports for Y-Axis guide rods (CNC machine)
I originally planned on using the initial supports that I cut for my 3D Printer (Y-axis also) but they were just a bit to short. My choices were either cut out a pocket for the stepper motor in the base board, add spacers under the supports or just cut new ones. Well... I just decided to cut new ones, its quick and just as important it'll look a lot nicer.
Both supports (old and new-just cut) were cut from 1/2" thick HDPE kitchen cutting board. I like the material since is cuts and drills fairly easily, is non reactive to most chemicals, not electrically conductive, and does not shrink or expand with temperature or humidity changes (at least not to any significant extent).
Here is a picture of both supports - the new one on the left and the old one (originally meant for the 3D Printer) on the right.
Both are unfinished. They both still show the "tab's" added to hold pieces in place while cutting, as well as left over flakes from being cut out. Even with that it is easy to see the difference in height for the guide rod holes. In addition, I squared off how the top meets the base to make more room for the mounting scews.
Both supports (old and new-just cut) were cut from 1/2" thick HDPE kitchen cutting board. I like the material since is cuts and drills fairly easily, is non reactive to most chemicals, not electrically conductive, and does not shrink or expand with temperature or humidity changes (at least not to any significant extent).
Here is a picture of both supports - the new one on the left and the old one (originally meant for the 3D Printer) on the right.
Both are unfinished. They both still show the "tab's" added to hold pieces in place while cutting, as well as left over flakes from being cut out. Even with that it is easy to see the difference in height for the guide rod holes. In addition, I squared off how the top meets the base to make more room for the mounting scews.
Monday, June 23, 2014
Project CNC and Project 3D Printer - Pictures of current Works in Progress
Progress pictures on CNC mill:
Planning changes in configuration of CNC mill:
A.) Secure Y-axis directly to base
1.) designed supports in Inkscape
2.) need to finish in Makercam and cut out the new pieces from HDPE cutting board
B.) Change "waste board" to Poplar board leveled to machine with T-Slot rails for securing
work pieces, will need to route areas for the rails to fit flush to the leveled board.
Progress on 3D-Printer Build:
Cuts in frame, in above picture were done by hand with a Pull Saw (sawdust from cuts still visible).
In trying to design a direct drive feed to my printer hot end I ended up having to take an experimental approach. Initially I designed and cut what I thought I needed (using Inkscape and my CNC machine) and after test fitting and a few redesigns I came up with the part on the right (3 separate layers fused together with M.E.K.)
My objective was to have a hole drilled through this piece for filament but due to clearances, stepper shaft length, length of fitting for stepper shaft, bearing size... etc, I ended up having to mill a path through the top layer of the piece deep enough for the filament and then fuze a layer of acrylic over top of the piece.
Planning changes in configuration of CNC mill:
A.) Secure Y-axis directly to base
1.) designed supports in Inkscape
2.) need to finish in Makercam and cut out the new pieces from HDPE cutting board
B.) Change "waste board" to Poplar board leveled to machine with T-Slot rails for securing
work pieces, will need to route areas for the rails to fit flush to the leveled board.
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| T-Slot pieces with 1/4" screws and Thumb nuts for workholding |
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| Left side of Z-axis |
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| Left side of Z-axis with stepper and linear bearings |
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| Top is Lft, side of Z-axis, middle is X-axis shuttle, bottom is Rt. side of Z-axis |
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| Overall Frame |
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| Cuts made in bottom of frame to allow travel of Y-axis and Y-axis belt |
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| Left side is initial test cut, Right side is corrected dimensions |
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| With bearing attached |
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| Showing path cut for feeding Filament |
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| Showing thickness of piece |
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| How PLA filament feeds through |
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| Bolt ground down to fit against stepper motor |
Labels:
3D Printer,
arduino,
cnc,
diy,
grbl,
hacking,
project,
stepper motor
Wednesday, June 11, 2014
Project CNC - Weekend CNC Adventure
(This post is from about 3 weeks ago - I posted it to my draft folder instead of Publishing it to the blog - so here it is finally.)
Z-axis fixed and functioning perfectly. So, that's a good thing. I figured that I can finally cut out my redesigned Y-axis guide rod supports for my 3D Printer build.
Z-axis fixed and functioning perfectly. So, that's a good thing. I figured that I can finally cut out my redesigned Y-axis guide rod supports for my 3D Printer build.
With
everything set:
- wiring connections (check)
- 1/8” single flute end mill tightened in spindle (check)
- added “%” and homing to G-Code generated by MakerCAM (check)
- previewed G-Code in OpenScam (check)
- secured HDPE piece (from kitchen cutting board) to work surface (check)
- tool zeroed to work surface (check)
While the second piece was being cut
out I saw that the end mill bit was going to cut into one of the
mounting screws for the piece – as fast as I could - I hit pause in
Universal Gcode Sender followed by shutting power to the steppers and
spindle/router. I was to late – the bit hit the edge
of the screw head sending some sparks out. After removing the end
mill all I could see was one faint scratch part way up the side of the bit.
It turned out that small defect was enough to render the bit useless. I tried using it - first shallow pass was Okay but the next pass the bit did not remove the cut material (acrylic chips built up around the bit) and overheated causing the the cutting area to melt.
Having no other recourse, I ordered new single flute end-mills (for milling plastics) - this time I ordered 2 each of 1/8" and 1/16" (the 1/16" I got to cut acrylic for edge lighting).
Monday night I decided to try cutting
out some acrylic to make an open top box – I wanted something that
would fit my wallet and phone that I could place in a drawer to keep
them both separated from everything else (I generally end up losing
one or both at least once a week so I was hoping this might help).
After determining what size box I would
need, and the thickness of the acrylic I have on hand, I laid out the
pieces in Inkscape – imported into MakerCAM – and finally edited
the code. The piece for the bottom of the box came out fine but when
the cut began for one of the side pieces the Y-axis stopped moving (motor
was moving but not the bed). I paused Universal G-Code Sender and cut the power to the spindle and stepper motors again.
After checking everything I determined that the nut on screw drive was partially stripped
and the mount for the nut was worn down allowing it to spin a bit.
So... I cut a new mount for the anti-backlash assembly, this time using Poplar instead of Pine (in the hopes that a hardwood will stand up better). I have been learning to cut dovetail joints and my practice with that paid off in making a clean and tight anti-backlash assembly. So far it has worked perfectly (I did replace the lead screw and swapped the brass nuts for stainless steel ones).
So... I cut a new mount for the anti-backlash assembly, this time using Poplar instead of Pine (in the hopes that a hardwood will stand up better). I have been learning to cut dovetail joints and my practice with that paid off in making a clean and tight anti-backlash assembly. So far it has worked perfectly (I did replace the lead screw and swapped the brass nuts for stainless steel ones).
New Twitter Feed for quicker updates
Learn By Making Twitter Feed
It's been quite a while since I've used Twitter at all but after seeing SpaceLab's Twitter Updates I thought it would be a good idea. Recently, my open time for posting has been very limited - as has my opportunities to work on current builds. Since I feel like I am falling further behind on updates I thought it might be a good idea to at least post shorter updates as to what is happening.
It's been quite a while since I've used Twitter at all but after seeing SpaceLab's Twitter Updates I thought it would be a good idea. Recently, my open time for posting has been very limited - as has my opportunities to work on current builds. Since I feel like I am falling further behind on updates I thought it might be a good idea to at least post shorter updates as to what is happening.
Saturday, May 17, 2014
Project CNC - New Spindle - keep forgetting to post picture
After my last spindle failure (bearing freeze up with Harbour Freight Cutout Tool) I knew that I had to splurge and get a better quality tool. I ended up deciding on a Porter Cable Laminate Trimmer.
It's a bit dirty in this picture but that's because I've been using it in my CNC mill. It is single speed (30,000 rpm - with no load) but that is fine with me right now. In the future I'll look at options for speed control.
My only issue with it has been that it only comes with a 1/4" collet (so it can only take bits/endmills with a 1/4" shank - my good endmills are all 1/8" shank). After a lot of searching I found a company that sells a 1/8" collet for this specific tool: Elaire Corporation. So far this collet has worked perfectly for my endmills. For some reason I could not find mention of this collet or company on any of the CNC sites I have looked at. Also it took looking 4-5 pages in on searches to find this company (when searching for collets for the Porter Cable Laminate Trimmer 7310). The cost of the collet, with shipping, ended up being around $27, so the router plus the collet was close to $90 after taxes. If I had gone with the Porter Cable Palm Router it would have been about $120 plus tax but would have included both collets. It would be nice to know if Porter Cable uses the same specs for collet's for all their routers.
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| PCLT 7310 with included mount |
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| Bare PCLT 7310 |
It's a bit dirty in this picture but that's because I've been using it in my CNC mill. It is single speed (30,000 rpm - with no load) but that is fine with me right now. In the future I'll look at options for speed control.
My only issue with it has been that it only comes with a 1/4" collet (so it can only take bits/endmills with a 1/4" shank - my good endmills are all 1/8" shank). After a lot of searching I found a company that sells a 1/8" collet for this specific tool: Elaire Corporation. So far this collet has worked perfectly for my endmills. For some reason I could not find mention of this collet or company on any of the CNC sites I have looked at. Also it took looking 4-5 pages in on searches to find this company (when searching for collets for the Porter Cable Laminate Trimmer 7310). The cost of the collet, with shipping, ended up being around $27, so the router plus the collet was close to $90 after taxes. If I had gone with the Porter Cable Palm Router it would have been about $120 plus tax but would have included both collets. It would be nice to know if Porter Cable uses the same specs for collet's for all their routers.
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